{"id":1901,"date":"2024-01-23T12:10:13","date_gmt":"2024-01-23T10:10:13","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/rev-antropologieurbana.ro\/?p=1901"},"modified":"2024-01-23T12:10:13","modified_gmt":"2024-01-23T10:10:13","slug":"moda-si-identitate","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/rev-antropologieurbana.ro\/ro\/2024\/01\/23\/moda-si-identitate\/","title":{"rendered":"Mod\u0103 \u0219i identitate"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><strong>Autor<\/strong>: Alexandra Rusu<\/p>\n<p>Studierea sistematic\u0103 a modei \u00een antropologie a debutat la mijlocul anilor &#8217;80 atunci c\u00e2nd \u00a0piesele de vestimenta\u021bie \u0219i accesoriilor \u0219i-au adus aportul la cercetarea proceselor de transformare social\u0103, cultural\u0103 \u0219i istoric\u0103. Tot \u00een aceast\u0103 perioad\u0103 s-a \u00eenregistrat o unificare a perspectivelor anterioare, fragmentate, propuse de antropologi, istorici, sociologi \u0219i muzeografi. Sistemul modei cuprinde deopotriv\u0103 artefactele \u0219i etapele prin care acestea trec pe parcursul vie\u021bii lor materiale, sociale \u0219i simbolice (produc\u021bie, distribu\u021bie, comercializare, \u00eensu\u0219ire, aruncare \u0219i\/sau reciclare), accentu\u00e2nd importan\u021ba contextelor multiple \u00een care hainele circul\u0103, prelu\u00e2nd semnifica\u021bii. Antropologia modei analizeaz\u0103 aceste contexte \u0219i practicile diverse implicate \u00een formularea unei espresii estetice dominante, eviden\u021biind dialectica dintre societate \u0219i individ, \u00eentre corp \u0219i materialitate.<\/p>\n<p>\u00cen lucrarea \u201eFashion anthropology: challenging eurocentricity in fashion studies\u201d Angela Jansen, urm\u0103rind s\u0103 elimine din studiul antropologic al modei dihotomiile propuse de optica eurocentric\u0103 ia \u00een considerare perspectivele antropologice interculturale, holistice \u0219i cele ale relativismului cultural \u0219i formuleaz\u0103 o defini\u021bie cuprinz\u0103toare a modei, aceea de \u201edesirable dress\u201d. \u201eHaina dezirabil\u0103\u201d cuprinde toate formele vestimentare existente iar atractivitatea acesteia este bazat\u0103 pe \u201eo serie de valori, fie ele sociale, politice, nostalgice, exclusiviste, moderne, inovatoare, na\u021bionale, ale tinerilor, etc.\u201d condi\u021bonate de contextul specific. Deoarece caracterul dezirabil este adesea greu de extras \u0219i analizat cercet\u0103toarea propune metoda observa\u021biei participative drept singura modalitate prin care putem delimita tipologiile de comportament. Cert este c\u0103 pentru a exista mod\u0103, mul\u021bi oameni trebuie s\u0103 fac\u0103 acela\u0219i lucru sau s\u0103 poarte acela\u0219i lucru, iar diseminarea trebuie s\u0103 fie fluid\u0103.<\/p>\n<p>O alt\u0103 caracteristica fundamental\u0103 a modei este dinamica, o mi\u0219care perpetu\u0103 propice creativit\u0103\u021bii, o continu\u0103 schimbare a gusturilor \u00een diferite contexte istorice \u0219i culturale, influen\u021bat\u0103 de evenimentele sociale \u0219i care, la r\u00e2ndul ei, poate modifica \u021bes\u0103tura social\u0103.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-1902 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/rev-antropologieurbana.ro\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/Moda-si-identitate-foto-r.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"733\" srcset=\"https:\/\/rev-antropologieurbana.ro\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/Moda-si-identitate-foto-r.jpg 800w, https:\/\/rev-antropologieurbana.ro\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/Moda-si-identitate-foto-r-480x440.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"(min-width: 0px) and (max-width: 480px) 480px, (min-width: 481px) 800px, 100vw\" \/><br \/>\nDomeniul de cercetare este la fel de vast ca \u0219i posibilele conexiuni \u00eentre componentele sistemului: moda-component\u0103 a culturii materiale, moda-strategie individual\u0103 \u0219i colectiv\u0103 de autodefinire, moda-mijloc de sporire a eficacit\u0103\u021bii \u0219i puterii, moda \u0219i consumul, moda \u0219i circuitele economice globale, etc.<br \/>\nDintre aceste teme cea a construirii identit\u0103\u021bii personale abordeaz\u0103 valen\u021bele transformatoare ale modei \u0219i identific\u0103 ra\u021biunile accept\u0103rii unei mode \u00een detrimentul alteia: dorin\u021ba de a fi acceptat \u00eentr-un grup sau o comunitate, tendin\u021ba spre imitare, nevoia de a se distinge, de afirmare, dorin\u021ba de a comunica sau construirea unei aparen\u021be. Moda, prin cadrul s\u0103u riguros de simbolizare, se propune astfel drept un sistem de construire a identit\u0103\u021bii sau a rezolv\u0103rii problemelor de identitate, fiind uneori \u0219i un fenomen terapeutic.<\/p>\n<p>Devenind parte din cultura de mas\u0103 guvernat\u0103 de principiul demod\u0103rii planificate, moda \u201epoart\u0103 greutatea produc\u021biei\u201d\u00a0\u0219i, \u00a0proiecteaz\u0103 asupra individului aceast\u0103 noutatea perpetu\u0103, cu repercusiuni importante asupra construc\u021biei sinelui. Vorbind despre mitul modei, filozoful Umberto Galimberti precizeaz\u0103:<br \/>\n\u201eAcolo unde o lume consacrat\u0103 de obiecte \u0219i sentimente de durat\u0103 este treptat schimbat\u0103 cu o lume populat\u0103 de imagini efemere, care se dizolv\u0103 cu acee\u0219i vitez\u0103 cu care apar, devine din ce \u00een ce mai dificil s\u0103 distingem \u00eentre vis \u0219i realitate, \u00eentre imagina\u021bie \u0219i date concrete.\u201d Iar identit\u0103\u021bile pot fi \u201e\u00eembr\u0103cate \u0219i aruncate precum ne-a \u00eenv\u0103\u021bat cultura modei.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Aceast\u0103 libertate iluzorie are poten\u021bialul de a dizolva reperele identit\u0103\u021bii personale, \u00eentr-o multitudine de manifest\u0103ri estetice sau comportamentale adoptate f\u0103r\u0103 medierea unui parcurs critic. Fenomenul se poate dovedi dezastruos mai ales \u00een cultura tinerilor. \u201eNeomaniei\u201d \u00eei putem contrapune un consum con\u0219tient, etic, integrat tendin\u021bei spre singularitate.<\/p>\n<p>Text &amp; foto: Alexandra Rusu<\/p>\n<p>Bibliografie:<\/p>\n<p>1.Maria Angela Jansen, Fashion anthropology: challenging eurocentricity in fashion studies, Fashion Tales 2015 Conference, 18-20 iunie, Milano, Italia. https:\/\/www.academia.edu\/13162442\/Fashion_Anthropology_Challenging_Eurocentricity_in_Fashion_Studies<br \/>\n2.Umberto Galimberti, I miti del nostro tempo, Feltrinelli, Milano, a 8-a edi\u021bie, 2019.<br \/>\n3.Intissar Bouaziz, Roy Toffoli, La tendance \u00e0 la singularit\u00e9 de l&#8217;individu et son r\u00f4le dans les choix de consommation: une \u00e9tude exploratoire, 2007, https:\/\/archipel.uqam.ca\/1228\/1\/M10506.pdf<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Autor: Alexandra Rusu Studierea sistematic\u0103 a modei \u00een antropologie a debutat la mijlocul anilor &#8217;80 atunci c\u00e2nd \u00a0piesele de vestimenta\u021bie \u0219i accesoriilor \u0219i-au adus aportul la cercetarea proceselor de transformare social\u0103, cultural\u0103 \u0219i istoric\u0103. Tot \u00een aceast\u0103 perioad\u0103 s-a \u00eenregistrat o unificare a perspectivelor anterioare, fragmentate, propuse de antropologi, istorici, sociologi \u0219i muzeografi. Sistemul modei [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[12],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1901","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-fara-categorie-ro"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/rev-antropologieurbana.ro\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1901","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/rev-antropologieurbana.ro\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/rev-antropologieurbana.ro\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rev-antropologieurbana.ro\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rev-antropologieurbana.ro\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1901"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/rev-antropologieurbana.ro\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1901\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1904,"href":"https:\/\/rev-antropologieurbana.ro\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1901\/revisions\/1904"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/rev-antropologieurbana.ro\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1901"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rev-antropologieurbana.ro\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1901"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rev-antropologieurbana.ro\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1901"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}